Like clean sheets and a comfy bed that is so big you can stretch out in your sleep and still not know there's someone else there. And like having a bathroom that you don't share with a hundred other people in the marina. And good coffee.
Jamie and I jumped ship in Alicante. Gatablanca and I had a tearful goodbye. That is, I shed tears, and she sat there in the water looking beautiful as always. And just like that, it was over.
We drove West, into Andalucia. The second you cross the border from Valencia, the landscape changes. Becomes more wild, more beautiful. With craggy mountains and fields of olive trees. This was the last Moorish outpost in Spain. We stayed in a little hotel under the Alahambra, in the Alcaiceria- the old Arabic quarter. The streets are cobbled and narrow and lined with little cafes and markets selling Moroccan goods and Indian imports*.
And after a couple of days in Granada, we drove to Madrid to catch our flight home. By the way, if you have a choice, don't rent a car and drive to Madrid. A 4 hour drive became a 7 hour drive due to the confusion of Spanish google maps directions, and streets that have 3 different names, and iphones running out of batteries, and Spanish road maps that don't have freeway names on the freeways, and then a convergence of Catholic youth from all over the world upon central Madrid where the Pope (el Papa) was due to arrive by plane around the time ours was due to take off. As we taxied to the runway, the pilot came on the intercom to point out his plane, which had just landed**.
And then, just like that, we were home. I am not entirely sure how I feel about this. My consolation is that Gatablanca is right where we left her and will be there when I go back next year.
I'll tell you more about the trip over the next couple of weeks or so- about the lonely tower cove that we found, and about the tres idiotas that we rescued. About the food we ate and the liqueurs we drank and the sunsets that we watched. But for now, I'm going to curl up on my couch with a blanket, a book and a mug of coffee, so a Tortilla Espanola recipe will have to do until then.
Tortilla is ubiquitous in Spain. Every time I'd visit dad I'd drag him to tapas bars and force him to eat them; I'm pretty sure that after I left he didn't want to look at another egg for months. You can buy them pre-packaged in the grocery stores there, and they're delicious, even though they're pre-packaged. We had them for dinner almost every night on board, with salad and a plate of delicious jamon and bread and cheese. It's perfect for having around in the fridge for snacking on. If people come over unannounced you can put it out and make it look like you're the type of person who is used to having people over all the time because you're prepared with fancy Spanish food. And if it's too hot and you can't be bothered cooking you can cut off a slice and eat it right there off the plate with the fridge door still open with no mess and no evidence except dirty fingers (which you can either lick off or wipe on a towel and voila- the perfect crime). And if it's dinner time and you forgot to make anything then you can put it on a plate with a nice salad and make a glass of tinto de verano and in five minutes you have a Spanish meal. Quite impressive, si?
3 tb heavy cream
1 large onion, diced
1 large potato, peeled and diced
2 tb butter
3 tb olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
Preheat oven to 350.
Boil a big pot of water and throw the potatoes in. Boil for 8 minutes- until you can pierce them with a fork but they won't quite drop off quickly. Strain.
Meanwhile, in a cast iron pan, heat the butter and oil, and sautee the onions for about ten minutes, until they start to brown slightly.
Add the potatoes, and then the seasonings. Cook for another couple of minutes, meanwhile beat together the eggs and cream. Pour the egg mixture into the pan, and cook (don't stir it) for a minute. Remove from heat and stick it in the oven. Cook for 15 minutes, until the centre is set.
If you have a broiler, then stick it under the broiler for a minute or so to brown the top. If not, it's no bother. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for about 15 minutes, then invert onto a plate. You can eat it warm, but it's really best after a couple of hours cooling. And it'll last in the fridge for 3 days.
*I stopped to look at a skirt, balked at the price, and told the man that I could have bought that for 200 rupees. He shrugged, in typical Spanish fashion, and I stormed off in a huff.
**I'd have assumed that the Pope had a private jet but no, he flies on AlItalia. How the Swiss guardsmen get their funny hats and spears on board is beyond me.